Discussion in 'CNC Art File Sharing' started by SignTorch, 3/17/14.
small line at top marks center of gravity, delete that before cutting
Good job Gary, can I ask which font that is?
Thanks, the font is Calligrapher Normal
Thanks Gary, I also notice the "centre of gravity" point, this would be a handy inclusion on a lot of pieces.
What do you work out the centre of gravity with Gary?
I don't get to use it much, but that's a corel draw macro I wrote to make weathervanes. Things like weathervanes and wind spinners work a lot better if balanced.
It can also calculate weight to balance shapes with different material thickness (like weathervanes).
I'm hoping to have a section for macros on here, when the tutorial section gets going.
I hadn't seen your Weathervane files there Gary, I've been working on a design the last few weeks as well, more to those damn things than first meets the eye!
All that balancing talk is just what I have been working out as well, some clever stuff with the macros!
I found that opening the dxf into solidworks, apply the metal thickness and material and go to 'mass properties' as below, that showed me the centre of balance as well.
I also put your deer scene file in as well just for the crac the balance was 'spot on'
did you notice I added horizontal fins to make the point smaller but heavier
I spotted that alright there Gary, they look well, it didn't quite look as good on my design though - I did try that as well
Rust protection is the thing giving me grief at the moment, it's looking like I will get them hot dipped before painting I think.
ah, I see you made the tip thick, that's good, those should be some nice weathervanes...
Thanks, tip 10mm, front section 4mm and the rear with shape 2mm
Thanks Gary, nice to see you have your own forum
How can I change this to a dfx file?
download the ZIP file then right click on it and hit extract-all (or similar) and follow the prompts
it's a ZIP file with multiple files compressed into one
i am not finding the extract-all (or similar)
what operating system are you using?
in windows, it normally looks like this
on a mac I think you just double-click the file
you can google unzip, and pick "unzip on windows", "unzip on mac", "unzip on Linux", etc, for lots of guidelines
you can google "unzip online", or just go to WOBZIP, and upload a zip file to an online unzipper, works best if the zip file is not too large and doesn't have too many files to re-download
I know it's a long time back Sean but sorry I didn't notice this part before.
I think you will find that hot dipping will fill all those cuts you took the time to draw and cut.
I've had success using either KBS Coatings "Rust Seal" http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product-category/kbs-coatings/ or POR15 "Rust Preventative Coating" http://www.por15.com/Rust-Preventive-Coating_c_11.html which should both be available to you over there. They will need to be top coated as they are not UV stabilised (you do get sun there a couple of days a year don't you ? ) but if you follow instructions you will not find a better protection for bare metal.
The problem with any coating which uses an electrical path to work is that it wont throw into the cut areas so it rusts there and spreads under the coating. This stuff is a self leveling, hammer hard urethane and if brushed on will get right into the cuts and seal it off. I've had 100% success with wind vanes where I had failures with powder coated and electocoated previously. Even have one that cops sea spray at a house overlooking the ocean that still fine after about 3 years where the original powder coated one was rusting after three weeks.
Thanks Murray, you are right hot dipping was a disaster really, it took me longer to clean up the parts than make them.
Thanks for the links I don't see those listed over here on 1st look.
A similar one is this http://www.rustbullet.ie/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=247340e740397fa37f12053fa780d554
Might be well worth a try.
I did try a couple getting them zinc metalize sprayed, they were a decent job really and will last well, just lightly sanded before painting.
I'll look into that paint though.
I had a quick look at the data on that one Sean and it does look like a similar product and is also a moisture cure that works by dehydration and encapsulating the material to seal it.
It might not be what the manufacturers recommended but I found that if I cleaned it all first by soaking it in Hyrdochloric acid and water it etched the metal including inside the cut for better adhesion.
I'm pretty sure POR15 is available in Ireland, if not at least the UK next door.
Thanks again Murray, will keep that info all in mind.
I made a few modifications, like removing the antlers, to make it cut small. Got this to cut at 20". Thank you for the beautiful file!
Gary, did you ever get that macro sorted to find the centre of gravity?
Separate names with a comma.