New member with a Mazak Laser, can anyone help?

Discussion in 'Cutting Systems' started by Mike Scott, 8/13/18.

  1. Mike Scott

    Mike Scott member

    When you run a laser cutter, there are piercings at the start of every line which permit the laser to cut through the sheet of metal, before carrying on to cut the part. Normally, the lead-in lines are long enough to avoid spatter on the face of the part, but if there's a small hole, there's invariably spatter.

    The piercings on my machine leave a lot of splatter, I know there's got to be a way to correct this, but it's not my machine to tinker with, can't really call Mazak about it (I'm permitted to call, but I work night shift, when Mazak is closed).

    Here's an example of the spatter I'm talking about, on small Jason mask I drew up.. cigarette pack for scale:

    small jason Flash-lt.
     
  2. Frank O

    Frank O registered

    What are you working with for a kerf-width? generally for a pierce, you focus the beam on the top of the material with the head at a safe distance (approx 5-7mm)... then drive the focus to 50-75% through the material, then move you z axis down to operating/cutting height... this procedure should be done to cut very contour of the part as to ensure your laser head optics are safe... and by the looks of your spatter, definitely more gas pressure 150-200 psi!!
     
  3. Mike Scott

    Mike Scott member

    Thanks, this means a lot to me.. I'll now need to look into all of that, and figure it out, but at least I have a starting point, and honestly, I really just didn't have one before.

    This problem being unsolvable by me, and no one else at work caring about it, has been a huge frustration. You've at least given me some hope. I have all sorts of artwork DXFs I've been working on for months, knowing they might never be cut properly.

    Currently, I've been working for months on a dragonfly for my little sister, who is being beaten-up pretty bad by breast cancer that went away, only to return as a series of brain and spine tumors that are currently still growing despite continued treatment. It's been kinda sad to think that it'd never get cut without that spatter mess all over the #3 stainless steel finish.. I'd really hate to try and grind chunks of it down, while trying to make it look good, and just paint over it, but it has been looking like that's where it's headed.

    I dutifully traced each and every bit of webbing in it's wings, and even with it's 4-foot wingspan, there are holes as small as 1/8", but I couldn't go bigger, to avoid spatter, because the body length would be much too large to deal with (it's a separate piece).

    With the current status of my sister, I need to get it finished soon, and considered outsourcing the work if I could get a loan to pay for it, but that's just not realistic, unfortunately, there's just no way to afford it.

    I hate to use the word "deadline" here, but yeah, I need to hurry. I appreciate your time, and I'll see where this leads me.
     
  4. Weeksy

    Weeksy member

    We run A Mazak Laser as well and there are different piercing types you can use to prevent this.........

    - jet pierce
    - step pierce

    the step pierce works good for piercing without spatter.
     
    Mike Scott likes this.
  5. Mike Scott

    Mike Scott member

    I've run the step pierce, but still had spatter. Unaware of a jet pierce. I need to look at the settings on the piercings, but I honestly just don't know enough about what I'm looking at.

    Unfortunately, my sister is on her last legs now. Although she hasn't been given a date, the brain tumors are giving her some significant issues, stopping her from completing even simple sentences. I spoke with her tonight, and I think that whatever I can get done for her this week, is going to have to suffice.. If I wait any longer, she's just not going to know what I'm giving her.

    If I do it now, I'll be grinding over it, but I think I'm the only one who would care about that at this point.

    The two red lines are 2-foot long, the yellow bit, is 3/8" long. in-prog1. in-prog2.
     
  6. Mike Scott

    Mike Scott member

    I've gone too long. each wing took a half hour to laser cut. I have one wing left to do, and will hopefully get it, and the mounting bracket, done during my lunchbreak.
    She's back in hospital and only has a matter of days left. DF-cut-wing.
     
  7. Mike Scott

    Mike Scott member

    days turned out to be hours. She died 1.5 hours after that posting. I gave the Dragonfly to my parents, as-is, but will replace that wing eventually.
    41034341_2128228170534546_6630460397193265152_n.
     
  8. SignTorch

    SignTorch Artist

    Roles:
    • Vinyl CuttingVinyl Cutting, CNC RouterCNC Router, Designer / ArtistDesigner / Artist, Hobby / PersonalHobby / Personal
    Brands:
    • Corel DrawCorel Draw, Adobe PhotoshopAdobe Photoshop, V-Carve ProV-Carve Pro
    Location:
    Vidor, TX
    I'm so sorry about your sister - that was a valiant effort - it's incredible if you ask me - don't beat yourself up - you went above and beyond - don't give up now - I know it's a difficult situation - but she inspired you - and it shows - carry on - for her - keep your head up
     
  9. Mike Scott

    Mike Scott member

    Thanks, very much. After reading your post, I cut-out the remaining wing Thursday evening, and installed it Friday.

    Unfortunately, as it's #3 brushed finish Stainless steel.. I got the wrong grain direction on the replacement wing, and spent about an hour taking it apart, and putting it back together before noticing the light reflected off of it differently.. It definitely looks better with the light running along the length of the wing, rather than just crossing it, and I KNEW that.. I'd been very careful with the other wings, for that reason.. oh well, I'm going to re-cut that on Monday. My parents were awed by it, and want to prominently display it as-is.

    Mental notes: next time, if I do anything as elaborate.. the 12ga "body plate" that the 1/4" diameter studs are passing through, needs to have CLEARANCE HOLES, not super snug precision-aligned holes with no room for error, because the studs weren't shot-on absolutely perfectly, and I had to do all sorts of tricks to get it apart, and back together again... scratching the body in the process (also being recut, and after re=looking at the above photo, I hope to change grain direction on that too.).. A step bit would have helped, but I incorrectly thought that since I'd gotten them IN there (by tightening the nuts to drag the studs through), they'd literally just fall out of there, so I didn't have anything with me. Also, whenever tightening/loosening locknuts with significant resistance, directly on the face of a cheese grater.. wear proper gloves.. Definitely was more of a blood, sweat, and tears project than I realized, I bled all over the back of it before I got it done.

    I left all the flash marks on there, for time consideration, but in retrospect, on there, they aren't as glaringly obvious as I thought they'd be. On this piece I'm ok with it for now, though I'd prefer to replace them later.
     
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